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"What if you climbed 600 ancient steps on a rock 12 km out in the Atlantic?"
There is nothing in Ireland quite like stepping off a small boat onto a rock that monks called home in the sixth century. The Atlantic swells remind you the landing is never guaranteed, which makes it feel earned when you finally set foot there. Climbing those uneven stone steps with puffins cutting past your ears and nothing but ocean in every direction strips away every ordinary concern you had that morning. You find out quickly whether you are the kind of person who laughs or freezes when the wind hits. Either way, you remember it forever.
Méabh (37), Navan — secondary school art teacher, keeps a saltwater fish tank she probably shouldn't
We drove down to Portmagee the night before, which took longer than Google said because there's roadworks outside Killorglin that nobody seems to be actually working on.
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